Fashion Forward Program

PORTLAND SEWING’S

FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM ©

Call for Applicants:  Portland Sewing invites you to apply for the FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM©, our structured apparel product development program.  The purpose of the program:  To launch you as a profitable Portland fashion designer.

Apply by August 27.  Winners chosen by September 7.  Program starts mid-September.  We take the 6-8 winners from designing through patterning, prototyping, sampling, and marketing.  Then to a fashion show in March where the applicants can show and sell their Fall 2012 lines to buyers.  The program then takes applicants through production and fulfillment.

Who is Portland Sewing:  We are apparel people teaching apparel people.  Since opening in 2010, more than 1,000 persons have studied at PS.  PS director Sharon Blair’s students have gone on to start boutiques and apparel lines.  Four have competed on Project Runway.  One student, Gretchen Jones, won.  Sharon Blair, herself, has two successful clothing lines.

To qualify, designers must:

– Have taken Fashion Design: Sketching & Illustration, Patternmaking 1 & 2 and Beginning Sewing (Industrial Machine Sewing, however, preferred).

– Commit to attending a concentrated course of study from September 2011 to May 2012.  This means 3-4 classes a term.  You pay for the classes.  This could cost $2000-$3000 (compared to $30,000 or more at other schools).  You pay as you go.  Portland Sewing will pay for the facilities, fashion show, launch parties and publicity.

– Send in the attached application by August 27, 2011, 5 pm to “FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM,” Portland Sewing, P.O. Box 18147, Portland OR 97218.  Send questions to Sharon@portlandsewing.com.

What’s in it for you:  You will launch as a fashion designer.  You will be taught the design and business skills needed to create and sustain a career in fashion design.  You’d be ready to take Sharon’s Project Runway boot camp if you wish.  This is the only program of its kind.

Classes** you will take:

Apparel design:  Textiles, Concept development, Illustrator & Photoshop, Advanced patterning & draping, Construction related to your designs, Fashion Event Production/Runway, Computer patternmaking, Grading & marking, Technical Design: Specs & Techs

Apparel business: Starting an apparel business, Legal and contracting basics, Market research, Costing, Sourcing, Finding a sales rep, Marketing & pr techniques, Creating an apparel business plan

** Have you taken any of these classes already?  Great!  You can “test out” of them.

FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM ©

Entry Requirements and Criteria

Entries are due by August 27, 2011, 5 pm.  Submit your entry to “FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM” c/o Portland Sewing, P.O. Box 18147, Portland OR 97218.  Selection and notification of the winners will be made by September 7, 2011.

Open to students or former students of Sharon Blair, and/or Portland Sewing in the Portland metropolitan area*.

Your entry must fit in a 9”x12” envelope and include (in this order):

• Complete entry and release form

- A completed design brief (see attached).

- Sketches, illustrations or digital images of 6 designs.   Please include front and back (or side) views for each image.  Make sure your designs relate to each other.

- A picture board showing your influences.  This could include magazine and newspaper clippings or photos of fashion designers, music, television shows or movies.  It could include fabrics and other textures.  Cut and paste on an 8-½”x11” board.

• - A short essay (800 words or less) outlining what you bring to the Portland fashion scene, why your fashion entry is innovative and sellable.  Explain your interest and motivation for a career in fashion.

FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM©

Design Brief

Title page:  Your name, proposed company name (if you have one), mailing address, phone number, e-mail address, date

Company profile:  Who are you in 10 words or less.

Target Market: Who is your customer?  Demographics (Age, Sex, Income, Occupation, Location). What do they need?  Desire?  How will your product satisfy that need?  How would customers use your product?  Where?  When?  What kind of store/website would carry your product?

Price Range:  Designer (e.g., Donna Karen); Bridge (e.g., Donna Karen Signature); Better (e.g., DKNY, Liz Claiborne); Moderate (e.g., Gap, Lizwear); Budget/mass (e.g., Old Navy)

Category (please be specific):

– Women (sizes):  Juniors (1-11), Misses (2-14), Women’s (16+), Petites (<5’4”)

– Men (ages):  Teen (13-17),  Young adult (18-30), Men’s (31-50), Big & Tall.  Sized by chest, waist & inseam

– Children (ages):  Infant (0-12 mos), Toddler (1-3 yrs), Children (3-6 yrs), Girls (7-10), Preteens (10-12 yrs)

Classification (please be specific):

– Women’s Wear:  Outerwear, dresses, career wear, blouses, sportswear, active sportswear, evening/bridal, maternity, uniforms, furs, intimate apparel, accessories

– Men’s Wear:  Tailored clothing, sportswear, active sportswear, uniforms, furnishings

– Children’s Wear:  Athletic, sportswear, active wear, uniforms, sleepwear, dancewear, underwear, outerwear, layette, fantasy

Describe your line:  How does it reflect the trends?  Fabrics you would use.  Colors, design lines and details.

Competition:  Who do you think is your competition?  How will you differ from them?

ENTRY AND RELEASE FORM

Complete the attached entry and release form.  Submit the entry materials in one package and write “FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM” on the package.  Essays and information may be submitted on a CD-ROM.  Mail all entry materials in an envelope with proper postage to Portland Sewing, P.O. Box 18147, Portland OR 97218.  Entries must be received by August 27, 2011, 5 pm.  For more information, visit www.portlandsewing.com

Entry and Release Form

Yes!  Please enter me in the FASHION FORWARD PROGRAM© at Portland Sewing!

Name _________________________________________________________________

Signature _________________________________________ Date _______________

Mailing Address ________________________________________________________

City _______________________State _________________ Zip __________________

Home Phone (_____) ____________________Email __________________________

If under 18, signature of parent or guardian is also required:

_______________________________________________________________________

Print Parent/Guardian Name ___________________________________________

How did you learn about this program?

__ From Portland Sewing

__ From the Internet

__ From a friend

__ From a newspaper article

__From a teacher _______________________________

__From a website _______________________________

__Other ______________________________________

Submit this form with your entry requirement materials to Portland Sewing, P.O. Box 18147, Portland OR 97218.    Entries will be returned by request only and must be picked up at Portland Sewing.

By signing this entry and release form, I acknowledge that I have read and understood the official rules and regulations for the Fashion Forward Program© competition and agree to abide by them. I represent that the attached work qualifies for submission to this program. I hereby irrevocably give my consent to Portland Sewing and to those it may authorize, to photograph, film, and/or videotape me and/or my work, and to quote and record statements made by me and to use, reproduce, publicly display, distribute, sell, and/or create derivative works from my image, images of my work, and statements made by me (with or without my name) and to identify me by name and/or with school and employment information, in all forms of media now known or later developed, including, without limitation, on the Internet, for any editorial, promotional, advertising, trade, commercial, or other purpose whatsoever, in perpetuity throughout the world.

I understand that Portland Sewing and those it may authorize shall not be responsible for unauthorized duplications/use by third parties on the Internet or otherwise. I hereby release Portland Sewing, those it has authorized, and their respective successors and assignees, from any and all claims and/or damages that may arise regarding the use, reproduction, display, distribution, and/or sale of my image or images of my work, or statements made by me as consented to herein, including any claims of defamation, invasion of privacy or infringement of moral rights, rights of publicity, or copyright.

By signing this form, I certify that any work submitted is original and mine alone and that I have the right to grant the permissions herein granted. I have read and understood this form.

Rules:  Winners may not substitute, assign or transfer prize or redeem prize for cash.  Portland Sewing reserves the right, at its sole discretion, to substitute prize (or portion thereof) with one of comparable or greater value.  Prizes are awarded “as is” with no warranty or guarantee, either express or implied.  All prize details are at Portland Sewing’s sole discretion.

Portland Sewing reserves the right to film, photograph and otherwise record all levels of the competition and use said photographs and recordings in any and all media now known or hereafter created throughout the world in perpetuity for any use whatsoever.  Individuals present during any aspect of the competition may be required to execute and return a liability/publicity release which release shall include a grant to Portland Sewing and its designees of the right to use of their names, likenesses and performance for publicity and advertising purposes.

General Conditions:  Portland Sewing is not responsible for lost, late, incomplete, stolen, inaccurate, misdirected or undelivered entry materials; or errors or problems of any kind whether human, printing, typographical, mechanical or otherwise relating to or in connection with this competition, including, without limitation, errors or problems which may occur in connection with the administration of the competition, the processing or judging of entry materials, the announcement of the prizes or in any competition-related materials.

Persons who tamper with or abuse any aspect of the competition, as solely determined by Portland Sewing, will be disqualified.  All associated entries will be void.

Should any portion of the competition be, in Portland Sewing’s sole opinion, compromised by non-authorized human intervention or other causes which, in the sole opinion of Portland Sewing, corrupt or impair the administration, security, fairness or proper play, or submission of entries or entry materials, Portland Sewing reserves the right at its sole discretion to suspend, modify or terminate the competition (or any portion thereof) and, at its discretion, determine the winners from all eligible, non-suspect entry materials received prior to action taken using the judging procedures specified herein.

Entrants (and, if eligible minors, their parents or legal guardians), by participating, agree that Portland Sewing, and their respective parents, affiliates, subsidiaries, prize suppliers, and advertising and promotion agencies, and all of their respective officers, directors, employees, representatives and agents (collectively, the “Released Parties”) will have no liability whatsoever for, and shall be held harmless by entrants against, any liability, for any injuries, losses or damages of any kind, including death, to persons, or property resulting in whole or in part, directly or indirectly, from acceptance, possession, misuse or use of the prize or participation in the competition, including any travel or activity related hereto.

Each winner, by acceptance of prize, except where legally prohibited, grants permission for Portland Sewing and its designees to use his/her name, address (city and state), photograph, voice, performance and/or other likeness and prize information for advertising, trade and promotional purposes without further compensation, in all media now known or hereafter discovered, worldwide, and on the Internet and world wide web, in perpetuity, without notice or review or approval.  All decisions made by Portland Sewing and judges at all levels of the competition are final and may not be disputed.

Ending thread confusion

Q.  I’m so confused!  What kind of thread should I use for sewing a skirt?

A. Here are four of the most common kinds of threads you’ll see and where to use them:

All-purpose = Use for general sewing.

Best – Polyester.  Use this for your skirt.  Since it’s made from long, staple fibers, polyester is strong, durable and colorfast.  Brands:  Mettler, Gutermann.

Okay – Cotton-covered polyester.  Because it is wrapped, it can shred and break.  But it’s less expensive and has more color choices.  Brand:  Coats and Clark.  Don’t buy “bargains.”  Throw away old spools.

Cotton – Use for quilting.  Not pre-shrunk so if it’s used in clothing, the seams will pucker in the first wash.

Rayon – Use for decorative stitching such as embroidery and serging.  Not strong enough for general sewing.

Silk– High sheen and high-priced.  Use for couture sewing.

I’m dying — fabric

Q:  I am having some mixed results dying silk with these Dharma Fiber reactive Procion dyes.  They just aren’t coming out vibrant enough. And of course the black is never black…….Do you have a better suggestion for what dyes to use?

A:  You’ll be surprised, but I’m going to suggest I-Dye from Jacquard.  I’ve had good, consistent results with dying silk.  I’ve experienced the same with the I-Dye poly for man-made fibers.  You’re right, however, that getting deep black is hard.  At best it’s a soft black or charcoal gray.  Follow the instructions carefully and use two packages of dye for best results.

Questions: Janome Magnolia 7330

Q.  I am looking to upgrade my humble Pfaff hobby machine because it isn’t doing the job I need it to do any longer. Since I am on a budget of about $500, I am looking at the Janome Magnolia 7330. Can you tell me if there is any reason not to buy this machine for my apparel sewing?

A:  The Magnolia is an excellent, durable machine with a good selection of automatic buttonholes.  $399.95 is the correct price from a sewing machine store.  Ask them to throw in a trolley cart — or at the very least — some extra needles and bobbins.  My favorite apparel sewing machine is the Pfaff.  But you have to get a top of the line machine (Creative Vision) and those are thousands of bucks.  Or get lucky and find a good used 7550/7560 or 1471 at a store or on line.  You need the powerful motor and built in walking foot to make it worth it and sadly the lower priced Pfaffs don’t have either.

A boutique owner tells all! And more. . .

Celeste Sipes, co-owner of popular boutique Radish Underground, visits Portland Sewing Saturday, May 21, 2-5 pm ($48) to tell you how to approach boutique owners when selling your apparel.

The class, also called “A boutique owner tells all,” is the next in a series of apparel business classes offered by Portland Sewing.

“Our aim is to boost our local apparel industry,” says Portland Sewing owner Sharon Blair, “and make Portland an apparel market center.”

Other classes in the series:

–Costing and pricing for a profit with Alice Ruecker of Sofada, June 4

– Sourcing fabric and labor with Alice, June 11

– Finding and hiring a sales rep with Tracey Forrest of True Collaborative, June 16

– Contracting basics with attorney Owen Schmidt, June 25

Coming in Fall 2011:  Writing apparel business plans and apparel product development bootcamp.

“We’ve planned our Spring classes as a way to prepare students for the Fall sessions,” Blair says.

Who is going to buy what you make?

It’s not enough to create a great product — or service.

You need to think about who will buy it — even before you spend one dime making it.

Instructor Jennie Kalberer will show you how to find and target potential customers — and how much they are willing to pay for what you make.?  At the end of her 3-week Marketing 101 class, you will know how to create the right kind of product for the right price and how to get it into the right place where your customers will buy it.

Kalberer is the founder and owner of Kalberer Consulting, LLC. She consults  with start-ups, entrepreneurs, and small businesses to help them raise funds through venture capital and angel investors, increase sales revenue, strategize growth opportunities and streamline business practices.?  She is a life-long entrepreneur and worked in design before receiving her MBA in Finance from the University of Portland.

Marketing 101 ($98) starts Saturday, April 30, 2-5 pm.  It is part of a series of Apparel Business classes at Portland Sewing.  Next up:

– How to get your garments into a store with Celeste Sipes of Radish Underground, May 21

– Make a profit:  Costing & pricing with Alice Ruecker of Sofada, June 4

– Where to buy fabric & labor with Alice Ruecker, June 11

– Finding and hiring a sales rep with Tracey Forrest of True Collaborative, Thursday, June 16, 6-9 pm

– Contracting basics with attorney Owen Schmidt, June 25?  All are $48 and take place on Saturdays, 2-5 pm unless otherwise noted.

Praise for Lisa Silveira

Sharon,

I just completed the Learn to Sew series, under Lisa’s instruction. It was

such a wonderful and satisfying experience (even the frustrating bits).

Lisa was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and patient. Lisa seem to have a

knack of providing excellent instruction while still allowing us to make

our beginner mistakes (and then patiently helping us fix them).

While I would like to believe that her attention was specific to me, I

noticed that she offered the same level of attention to everyone in the class.

I really enjoyed her class and feel lucky to have received such great instruction.

Cheryl

Fashion show tickets moving quickly

Seating is limited and tickets are moving quickly for Portland Sewing’s first anniversary fashion event.  So get yours now!  The show benefits the Peace Garden at Coburn Place Safe Haven – a women’s shelter.  Coburn gives women who have suffered from domestic violence and their children a sanctuary where they can start anew.

The interior of the sewing school will be turned into an indoor garden featuring bird-friendly plants.

The show features designs from award-winning and noted designers:

– Bryce Black for StudioSKB, Grey Gardens.  StudioSKB is Sharon Blair’s line of clothing.  This year she is turning it around and using the label to launch a designer a year.  This year, the designer is Bryce Black.  Black soon will graduate from Art Institute.  His clothes have been featured in Portland Monthly.  His Fall 2011 collection, Grey Gardens, set the tone for the garden party fashion event.  It is inspired by the documentary and film about Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis’ relatives.

– Alicia Wood, Ms. Wood.  Wood studied at Parsons before coming to Portland and Portland Sewing.  She combines draped kimono sleeves with fabrics such as silk, chiffon and leather.  Her line includes obi belts, hats, bags, jewelry and handcrafted shoes.  She was named Best Emerging Designer of 2010 at last year’s Portland Fashion Week.

– Alyson Clair, Clair Vintage Inspired, aims to flatter all womanly figures.  Her line ranges from XS to XL and is made primarily of knits.  “I take a lot of pride in the fact that my entire line is designed and manufactured right here in Portland, Ore.,” she says.

– Nyla Jano’s Torrain line of accessories was inspired by a trip to Cambodia.  She recycles rice bags into purses, wallets, handbags and backpacks.  She wants to encourage style mixed with a global conscience.

– Robin Forsythe, Estate, sells her clothes at Portland boutiques Union Rose, Sofada and Tumbleweed.  Estate upcycles fabrics to create apparel from existing fabrics, preferably made from natural fibers.  She chooses subdued colors and textures.

– Stephanie Dong, Stephanie D Couture.  She uses her bachelors degree in apparel design to create ready-to-wear, bridal and custom-made garments.  After five years in the business, she is in the process of opening her own boutique.

– Tiffany Bean, Tiffany Bean.  Owner for five years of Mabel and Zora, a boutique in Portland’s Pearl District, Bean is launching her eponymous line at the garden party event.  She describes her line as “inspired by Doris Day and James Bond movies.  My line has a 1960’s influence, bright colors, bold prints and flattering, feminine silhouettes.”

– Vien To, Vien.  Her well-constructed silhouettes are sold in boutiques in Salem, Ore., and will soon be sold in a boutique of her own.  She earned her apparel degree in 2009.

Go to the Fashion Show Tickets tab to buy your tickets.  They are $10 on-line, $15 at the door.

Sewing Tip: Knits don’t fit

Q:  My daughter who is 27, works at Macys and wears jeggings and asks a question:  Is it possible to add a non-stretchy waistband to jeggings to prevent sagging fabric in rear?

A:  Unfortunately, your daughter has fallen victim to bad fabric (baggy knit) and bad fit (not enough fabric to go from center front to center back).  A nonstretchy waistband would only gap in the back.  Her best bet is to open up the waistband, if possible, and tighten the elastic at center back.

Send your sewing questions to sharon@portlandsewing.com

Making a wedding dress

Q. The sister of a good friend of mine is getting married, and wants to have me make her wedding dress. Since I have never really done this before, I’m not quite sure where to start. She’s on a tight budget. Fortunately, the 2 styles that we picked out for the dress are not complicated. The basic structure is a v-neck (possibly sweetheart neckline) tea-length dress with straps, maybe bias cut, maybe with princess seams. The major requirement is that she doesn’t want it made of polyester or another synthetic material. So we’ll be looking at silks, silk-hemp blends, maybe silk-linen. I sure would love your advice.

A. To keep to her budget, let’s start by keeping the cost of fabrics, trims and notions below $100. The two of you should search through the bridal/evening gown section of the Vogue pattern book. Choose the pattern size based on her body measurements for bust, primarily, then waist and hip. Look for the body measurements chart in any American pattern book — they are standard.

Stay away from silk hemp or silk linen. They’re more expensive and wrinkle. Go to silk dupioni instead. It’s typically less expensive and easier to sew. Be sure to serge/zigzag the edges to prevent raveling. Stay away from silk charmeuse or silk satin unless you are experienced. It’s more expensive too.

Josephines and Fabric Depot have nice silks. But you’ll get a better price on the silks at Mill End-Milwaukee. Use your JoAnns coupon to get 25% off your Mill End purchase. Buy an extra yard or two just in case.

Plan for two fittings: One in muslin because you are likely to alter the pattern. One in fashion fabric. Leave one-inch side seams just in case. Add a contingency clause (extra $50) for a second muslin fitting in case there are major changes. The rest goes to your time (cutting, sewing, fitting, consulting, alterations). If you can keep your work to under 20 hours, you can make money.

Want to know more about starting and running an apparel business? Then look for our apparel business classes on www.portlandsewing.com. The next round start in April.

Good luck — Sharon@portlandsewing.com