Q. I have a question about interfacing a tailored jacket. Do I interface the entire front of the jacket or do I cut off the interfacing before the front darts?  Do I interface the side front as well?

I am guessing that we add interfacing to the lapel before we tape the roll line? Is that correct?

A. With a lightweight fabric, interface the entire body of the jacket (not the sleeves).  Fusible knit interfacing such as Fusiknit is a good bet.

If you want to go with an unstructured “Armani” look to your jacket, just add another layer to the lapel and the upper back above the shoulder blades.

If you want a more structured “Saville Row” look, use hair canvas for the front (in front of the darts), lapel and upper back.  You might even add a chest piece on the upper front.

As to the roll line, iron fusible 1/4″-wide straight-grain tape for the Armani look; fell stitch 1/4″-wide linen tape for the Saville Row look.  Both tapes should be on top of any interfacing.

For more details on where and how to place interfacing and roll tape, come to Jessica Bobillot’s Tailoring class set for Thursdays, March 3-April 7, 6-9 pm.